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Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.